Watchet sits on the Somerset coastline, sandwiched between the Quantock Hills in the east and Exmoor in the west.
Apart from being a very pretty seaside town with a harbour, a wide promenade lined with cafes and ice cream parlours, and an excellent fish ‘n’ chips shop, it’s also a stop on the West Somerset Railway allowing you to travel along the coast in steam-powered style.
Watchet promenade and harbour
The first thing that struck me about Watchet was its arresting, seven-foot high bronze of The Ancient Mariner that stands proudly on the esplanade, its back to the harbour. Anyone who’s familiar with the Romantic poet Coleridge, will immediately recognise the despondent mariner with a dead albatross hung from his neck, as the eponymous protagonist of the epic poem, The Rime of the Ancient Mariner.
Having walked to Watchet from his home in Nether Stowey, accompanied by his friend William Wordsworth and William’s sister, Dorothy, Coleridge was so struck by the town that he made it the harbour from which the ill-fated vessel set sail.
A little further along the esplanade is the smiling, sitting figure of Yankee Jack, or Jack Short, who is credited with being the father of sea shanties. A local lad born in 1839, Jack went to sea out of Watchet Harbour and in the 1860s joined a Yankee ship in the American Civil War. Singing with what was referred to as ‘a most melodious voice’ as he worked, when he retired, his collection of songs was recorded and collated.
A brief history of Watchet
The Doomsday Book of 1086 records the existence of a mill at Watchet, as well as evidence of Saxon buildings on Cleeve Hill to the west of the town, where the remains of the 10th-century Daws Castle stand. Already a centre for trade, Watchet was at its most important and influential around this time and would have been a target for Viking raids, particularly as there was a Royal mint within the grounds of Daw’s Castle.
The main street, Swain Street, dates back to the 17th-century and would have been the main route to small jetties for the loading and unloading of goods. The principal trade at that time would have been wool but there would also have been lime from the many kilns dotted along the coast and which was in great demand from the building industry. Imports at that time would have included salt, coal, wine and brandy from the Continent. Shipbuilding and fishing naturally developed around the harbour and the first breakwater is thought to have been constructed in the early 16th-century.
The first substantial harbour was constructed in 1708 at a cost of £1000, and in 1843 the esplanade was built. The new constructions opened up possibilities for further trade and Watchet saw the export of thousands of tons of iron ore from the Brendon Hills. Trade reached its zenith in the late 19th-century with coal imports reaching over 13,000 tons.
Things to do in Watchet
The best thing to do in Watchet is what everybody else does… get yourself an ice cream and stroll the harbour and esplanade or simply sit on the esplanade watching the boats bobbing on the harbour in the sunshine. Then head to the main shopping street (Swain Street) and browse the shops. But beyond that, if you’ve got time, Watchet presents several excellent options:
We enjoyed walking from Watchet to Minehead on the King Charles Coastal Path, weaving in and out from the seafront. From Minehead we jumped on a bus to take us back to Watchet where we enjoyed a beer at the Pebbles Tavern, and excellent fish ‘n’ chips from the Harbour Fish Bar next-door-but-one, which we ate sitting on the esplanade.
If you prefer a more leisurely trip along the coast, board the West Somerset Railway which will take you by steam train westwards to Minehead (£20 return) or eastwards to Bishops Lydeard (£23 return).
If you’re interested in broadcasting, the Radio Museum on Anchor Street (only open on Saturdays, 1030-1700; admission free) houses a collection of radios, TVs, and broadcasting equipment which tells the story of the development of Britain’s broadcasting industry since the 1920s.
The Market House Museum on Market Street (open every day from easier weekend to late October, 1030-1630; admission free) recounts the history of Watchet from pre-history, including an impressive display of fossils found locally.