We’re fans of fish and seafood and more than likely to choose it from menus, so were on the search for a good fish restaurant in Bath. Using the same approach we applied to pick The Circus, we added The Scallop Shell to our shortlist of potential places to eat when we visited the city. Maybe we were naïve, and maybe the prices we saw on the sample menu sent us off down the wrong path, but we didn’t realise it was actually a fish and chips restaurant rather than a seafood restaurant until we stood in front of it and saw ‘fish and chips’ above the front door. I’ll be honest, we hesitated about booking a table. Not because it was fish and chips (we both love a fish and chips hit every now and again) but because of the price tag. For a few moments, we debated whether something which cost £24 could actually just be fish in batter. It seemed hefty and we nearly baulked. What convinced us to try was seeing a rave recommendation from chef Marco Pierre White. Even then, we were still muttering, ‘It can’t really be fish and chips as we know it … can it?’ as we walked away after making a reservation.

The Venue

The Scallop Shell is located a short distance from the main centre, about a ten-minute walk from the Abbey. The restaurant has two floors and an outdoor terrace. Prime spot is downstairs where diners can watch all the action in the open kitchen. Entering, customers are greeted by a rolltop bath filled with the catch of the day. Stupidly, I didn’t take a photo when we arrived, and by the time we left the catch of the day was no more.

All downstairs tables were taken when we booked, so we had to make do with one upstairs, which was a bit disappointing … till we saw what the upstairs dining room was like. Whereas the lower floor felt more like an upmarket fish and chips joint, the first-floor dining room felt more like, well, a proper restaurant with cosy little booths and comfy banquette seating. Throughout, the décor is fishing themed – thick ropes, lobster pots, bulkhead lights, crates, and marine inspired artwork. If it were clothes, I’d describe the look as smart but casual. It is instantly relaxing and welcoming.

The Menu

The Scallop Shell claims to champion the best of British seafood, sourcing its fish and seafood from small boats which land their catch along the south coast and also at the likes of Peterhead in Aberdeen and Tarbet near where I come from in the West of Scotland.
One of the things which first reeled me in was their starter menu. I could happily have ordered anything from it – the salt cod fishcake, Porthilly rock oysters, hand dived scallops from Orkney, or St. Austell Bay mussels. Mains are mostly about battered fish, whether that’s cod loin, haddock fillet, or monkfish tail. But there’s also ray wing from Devon, Cornish sole, fishcakes, and surf n’ turf as well as a vegetarian option. There’s also a lunch deal which represents excellent value.

The Food

Although keen to try seafood starters, we decided against it. This was purely because we saw the size of the portions being landed on tables around us. Andy opted for the cod; I went for the haddock.

Portions are huge, as you might expect for a once cheap dish with a price tag of over £20. The fish is accompanied by homemade chips, cut from spuds from family farms, a scallop shell with tartar sauce, and a tub of mushy peas. For the price, I’d expect it to be exceptional fish and chips. And it was. Crisp, tasty batter and succulent, perfectly seasoned flaky fish. The chips were also excellent – too many times in recent years we’ve been disappointed by chunky chips that were dry and tasteless. Not at The Scallop Shell. The tartar sauce was good, and the mushy peas were, well they completely blow away the claim by my northern English pals that southerners can’t do mushy peas. Both of us agree that it was the best fish and chips we have eaten in a long time, and that includes some very good ones in Whitby. We also both agreed the haddock was the tastier of the two.

Yes, it seems a hefty price tag for what is a run of the mill dish. But I totally get why Marco Pierre White rates The Scallop Shell so highly. Next time we visit Bath, we should try different restaurants. But you know what? I’d struggle to pass up on the opportunity to eat at The Scallop Shell again.

The Details

The Scallop Shell; thescallopshell.co.uk; 22 Monmouth Place, Bath; open: Mon – Sat midday – 14:30 & 16:30 – 21:30, Sun midday – 15:00. Starters average £10.50; mains average £24.